Honda Shadow Sabre Stator Replacement (August 18, 2008)
by: Phil Haseltine - Sabretooth

The following information is my experience for replacing the stator in my 2004 Honda Sabre VT1100C2.  This can be used for other bikes I’m sure, but this is my procedure and the issues that I encountered.  Hopefully, this will make it easier for the next person.

First, I don’t think batteries just up and die.  So as I was riding I was about 50 miles from home and pulled off the interstate.  Came to a stop and blamo… the bike dies.  Tried to start and nothing… I mean nothing.  Pushed to the side and checked my LED voltage monitor.  It was RED, less than 10.5V.  No way will the bike start.  Got jumped and to a Honda dealer, bought a battery, stuck it in, got home and the bike would just barley start again.

Now I have work to do since the new battery did not charge.  Two things, voltage regulator/rectifier or stator, these are the only two items for this model/type of motorcycle. 

Using a digital voltmeter, I connected to the battery, started the bike and it read 11.3… 11.2… 11.1… going down.  Revved the throttle and it still went down.  I knew I needed at least 13 or more volts at this time.  Doing my homework, yes, at 4-5K rpm the voltage should be 13.5 to 14.5 volts.  With my Sabre, the voltage always went down.  I charged the new battery to full and did my test again, same outcome.  Definitely, the battery was not charging. 

Simple things first, bought a voltage regulator/rectifier from my dealer ($48), put it and nothing, same problem.  Only part left is the stator.

Here is a great article on how to troubleshoot problems like this.  I found this after I fixed my problem.

http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_garage.htm

Read this article first before attempting this work, it is very good.

So, let’s get started.  I will be making comments throughout this article just to keep things interesting.

Tools needed:

1. 8, 9, 10, 12, 17mm socket
2. Phillips head screwdriver
3. Rubber mallet/hammer

Parts Needed:  Just order these period you WILL need them.

1. 11395-MAH-000 Gasket, L  (Main seal)
2. 22862-MAH-003 Gasket      (Clutch assembly)
3. 91204-425-003 Oil Seal        (Shifter)
4. 11365-MM8-881 Gasket       (Starter cover)
5. ESG080 Stator from http://www.electrosport.com/products/product-detail-418.php higher performance with 20% more output
6. Acetone for cleaning.
   
   

I also had some high temperature RTV silicone sealant that I did use in small quantities. 

Note:  I will be using the same pictures more than once.

OK, let’s get started!

1. Drain the oil, period.  You will thank me later.
2. Remove the seat.
3. Remove the battery.
4. Locate the connector that has three yellow wires.  Here they are at the top.  This is the connection from the stator to the voltage regulator/rectifier.  This is the main one you will be replacing.  Unplug it for now.  The other two are from the regulator/rectifier.

5. Get ready to remove the right side cover from the left crankcase cover.
6. This is tricky.  There are TWO clips behind the cover that must be removed.  Here is a picture of the one on the left.  Reach behind the cover and rotate them both up.  The other one is to the right of the clutch cable, feel behind the cover and flip it up also.  Remove BOTH clips.  Remove the nut at the bottom of this cover.  

7. Unbolt the shifter assembly and fold it up to the left.  Notice that it has two dimples for alignment.  Mark these better with a permanent marker.  Behind here you will see an oil seal that will be destroyed during the procedure.  Don’t worry, you have a new one.

8.  After the right cover is removed you will see another cover.  This is part of the starter motor/gears.  Number each one of these bolts on the head and cover because they are the same size but different lengths.  I am pointing to the actual stator wires coming out of the crankcase cover.

9. Remove the cable from the clutch assembly.  Remove the three bolts that hold this on.  Oil may start to come out, don’t worry, you drained it remember?

10. See that rod in the middle?  Pull it straight out and put it aside.  Remember the orientation.  See that bolt with the rubber grommet?  Remove it too.

11. Here it the clutch assembly removed.  You will be replacing this gasket. 

12. This next picture shows the starter cover removed.  Don’t worry the gears inside are free and can be put back easily.  Notice the bolt I am pointing too.  You need to REMEMBER this bolt to put it back together.  Also notice the metal dowel pins for alignment.  Do not lose these.  Also notice the gasket material.  This will need to be completely cleaned.  

13. At this time you may remove all the bolts around the left side of the crankcase cover.  These are all the same length (sorry, no picture).


14. Here comes the fun part.  Time to remove the crankcase cover.  The problem I had here was at the bottom right of the crankcase, there is a slight flange that got stuck on the water pipe. 

15. To fix this issue, remove this bolt here.

16. Now what I did was to use a wood clamp to pull this water pipe to the right about ¼” so the crankcase cover would come off.

17. Once this pipe is pulled to the right, now is the time to remove the crankcase cover.  You MUST use a rubber mallet/hammer and tap all around the cover until you hear the pitch change.  Once you hear this, it has broken the gasket seal.  Now you must try to wiggle the cover back and forth to get it over the shifter at the bottom.  There are also two metal dowel pins used for alignment that must be cleared by about a ¼” before you and move it back and forth.  Take your time, it will come off.


18. Once the cover is off, hold it carefully and cut the three yellow wires to the stator.  Your new stator will have new connectors.  Here is a picture of the old stator and the internal clamp for the wires.  Notice the gasket material, this will need to be completely removed and cleaned.

     

20. Now you may remove the three bolts and the old stator and replace it with the new one.  Make sure it mounts correctly and fit the grommets back the way the old ones where.  Just leave the new wires hanging without the connector.  You will splice and add the connector after you snake the wire assembly back up under the seat. 
21. Remove the oil seal by the shifter hole.  This will be difficult and you will destroy it, but you have a new one.


22. Here is a picture of the crankcase cover with the stator removed.  Notice the notch where the strain relief of the stator is supposed to go.

23. Here it the problem that I had with my new stator.  The old stator had three holes and the strain relief next to one of them.

24. The new stator (blue) had the holes incorrect causing the strain relief NOT to fit into the notch above because it was too far away.

25. I solved this problem by removing the strain relief all together and not use it.  The crankcase internal mounting was plenty to hold this in place.  I called the company and they are going to fix this, so this should not be an issue. 
26. Time to get the gaskets ready!  Clean ALL surfaces and remove the old gasket material from EVERYWHERE!  You want a perfect seal and no oil leaks.  Take your time.  When all is removed, use acetone to clean all surfaces of everything.
27. Install the new stator and tighten the bolts.  Route the wires up and clamp them with the internal clamp.  I would suggest some sort of thread lock but I use clear nail polish.
28. Now you need to mount the main crankcase gasket.  I used a small amount of RTV Silone gasket seal just to make sure the gasket stays put on the engine, not the crankcase cover.  I also used this on the rubber grommets for the wires.


29. Time to mount the crankcase cover with the new stator.  Remember to move the water pipe to the right as far as possible.

30. Mount the crankcase cover making sure the wires for the new stator are positioned correctly.  Push carefully and watch the metal dowel pins for alignment.  It should pop in perfectly!  Watch the gasket!
31. Put in the bolts around the left side do not tighten!  Make sure you do not forget this bolt!  Tighten this bolt now.

     

32. Now you may tighten these bolts, especially the bolt that is inside the starter cover.
33. Mount the starter cover (with gears inside) with NEW gasket.  This has metal dowel pins also.  These bolts are each of different lengths that’s why I wanted you to number them.  Do not tighten yet.




34. Put the long rod into the clutch assembly.

35. Mount the clutch assembly with NEW rubber gasket.  Watch this as this has a metal dowel pin that a bolt goes through.

36. Once you have verified that you have no left over bolts, now you may start to tighten everything.  I don’t have a torque wrench so I use the two finger tight method.  Works perfect. 
37. Once all these bolts are tightened, you must now insert the NEW oil seal into the shifter assembly located behind my finger here.

38. It should push straight in and then I used a piece of wood to tap it in all around so it seats flush.
39. Route the wire assembly up through the inside of the Sabre and bring out the three yellow wires.  Connect and SOLDER these to the new female spade lugs and install into the plastic connector.  It does not matter which wire goes where.  Plug it in.
40. Put oil back in the bike!  This is important.  (Duh)
41. Install the battery.
42. Connect your digital voltmeter to the battery terminals and turn it on.
43. Time to kick the tires and light the fires!  Start the bike up!
44. Your voltmeter should start to read 12.5 volts or more!  Over 13.5 volts and you should see it go UP!  Crank the throttle and the display, it should only go up and stay put!
45. If you see this, you have succeeded!  Turn off the bike.
46. Install the shifter.
47. Hook up the clutch cable.
48. Install the right side cover, watch those clips!  Install the seat.
49. Take her for a short test drive and come back and check for any oil leaks. 
50. Let her sit overnight with white paper towels under to make sure no oil leaks, take her out the next day for a longer trip and check for oil leaks again.

Well, that should do it.  Total time for me (includes beer breaks) about 10 hours, not rushing at all.  You don’t want to rush this.

Parts were about $190 total.

Hope this helps.

Phil Haseltine - Sabretooth